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05 septembre 2008
Une variation du Pain des Trois Rivières/ A variation on the Bread of Three Rivers
Après avoir mis la recette du Pain des Trois Rivières, Mike Avery, le boulanger qui m'avait parlé du livre Bread of Three Rivers de Sara Mansfield Taber, m'a écrit pour décrire le pain qu'il vend dans sa boulangerie qui est basé sur la recette du livre. C'était un peu cryptique, mais je pense avoir compris l'essentiel. Il a changé le taux d'hydratation et j'ai décidé de garder le même mais en suivant sa technique de fabrication.
After having posted the recipe for the Bread of Three Rivers, Mike Avery, the baker who had initially told me about the book, wrote me to explain his take on this recipe, a bread that he sells in his bakery. It was a bit cryptic, but I think I understood the essential (Mike, I hope you'll let me know what you think!) He changed the hydration level and I decided to keep it the same while following his technique. OK, I admit that it was because I was a bit lazy to change all my calculations.
On obtient un pain de meilleur qualité gustative, plus complexe, and aussi une texture plus élastique avec une mie plus alvéolée. Le pain se garde mieux aussi. Il ne ressemble plus au pain classique de boulangerie, il est bien meilleur!
The resulting bread is of better quality than the first recipe, with better, more complex taste and a more elastic and open crumb. It keeps much better as well. It doesn't resemble a classic bakery bread, it is much better.
La croûte du pain a des petits points partout car je voulais le vaporiser juste avant de le mettre au four mais mon vaporisateur n'avais pas assez d'eau et ça a fait des goutelettes
The bread has dots on it because I decided to try misting it before baking, but I didn't have enough water in my mister and it made droplets. Oh well
La recette:
Here goes:
Mike Avery's French Bread
Pour le poolish:
La veille au soir, mélangez en fouettant:
In the evening, whisk together:
150g farine T65 (bread flour)(on peut ajouter 2 cs de gluten pour arriver à 12+% de protéine mais je ne l'ai pas fait)
151g eau (water)
1/8 cc levure de boulanger (1/8 tsp dry yeast)
Autolyse:
Le matin, dans un bol mélangez et laissez reposer couvert de 30-60 min
In the morning, mix in a bol and let rest, covered from 30-60 min
250g farine T65
200g eau
Pour la pâte finale:
For the final dough:
la pâte de l'autolyse (the autolyse dough)
le poolish (the poolish)
200g farine T65 (bread flour)
1/4 cc levure de boulanger (1/4 tsp yeast)
51g eau (water)
11g sel (salt)
Mélangez tous les ingrédients et pétrissez jusqu'à ce que la pâte forme une boule, bien élastique et lisse. Posez-la dans un bol, couvert d'un film plastique. Chaque 20 - 30 min effectuez un pliage.
Après 1-1h30, pesez et découpez la pâte. Effectuez une première mise en forme, couvrez et laisser reposer 15 min.
Façonnez les parts. J'ai fait deux grosses bâtards comme dans la permière recette afin de comparer le résultat.
Posez les bâtards dans une couche, couvrez et mettez au frigo toute la nuit. (J'avoue que j'ai triché. Je les ai laissés au frigo jusqu'à tard dans l'après-midi en les faisant cuire pour le dîner)
Préchauffez le four à 250°C
Transposez les bâtards sur une pelle à pain bien farinée, faits les incisions comme pour une baguette.
Faites un très bon coup de buée et enfournez les bâtards. Refaites un coup de buée.
Laissez cuire environ 25 min jusqu'à ce que la crôute soit bien dorée mais pas trop foncée et que le dessous sonne creux.
Mix all the ingredients and knead until the dough forms a nice ball, elastic and smooth.
Place it in a bowl and cover. Do a stretch and fold every 20-30 min.
After about 1-1h30, when the dough has nicely risen, scale and do a mise en forme. Cover and let rest 15 min.
Shape two bâtards (or whatever shape you want. I wanted to compare with the other recipe so I did the same) and place them in a couche.
Place them, covered, in the fridge all night. (I cheated and left them all day until late afternoon in order to have fresh bread for dinner).
Preheat the oven to 250°C.
Turn the bâtards on to the floured peel. Do the incisions. Steam the oven well and slide the bâtards in to the oven. Steam a bit more.
Let them bake around 25 mn making sure they don't brown too much. OK, I didn't actually time because my timer is broken, so watch!
Let cool on a rack before slicing.
Commentaires
Très beaux !
Il n´y a presque pas de levure....1/8 de cuillère à café (de plus dificile à mesurer :-)). C´est juste le type de pain que nous aimons. Je viens de faire la poolish. On vera demain.
Merci pour cette recette,
Myri
http://lacuisinedemyri.blogspot.com/
baguette
You are not getting big enough holes. That is why your crumb is not gellotionizing. If your crumb is too tight, the heat cannot get in.
I have been baking baguettes into obesity for 6 years, and I am getting nice ones.
Here is how I do it.
6.75 oz Bobs red mill bread flour
5.5 oz water
1 tbs fresh starter
1 tsp salt
Combine to a rough dough, do not kneed !
To the frig for 16 hours.
Out of the frig, and fold it, streeching ( not kneeding the dough ) Fold it about 4 times till it is TIGHT !
Back to the bowl for 40 minutes, then fold it again, till it is a tight ball.
next
I take it down into the basement for 8 to 12 hours to sit in a greased bowl, till it doubles,, fermenting slowly.
When is has doubled,, take it from the bowl, dump it onto a floured counter top, and use a pancake turner to carefully nudge it into a bagette on a floured counter top.
Toss it upside down on to a sheet pan, and do not slash !
Toss the sheet pan into an oven heated to 500 f and pour in a cup of boiling water ( into a pre heated pan already in the oven.)
Spritz 3 times, once each 30 sec, and turn the oven down to 465 f,
bake for 20 min, but if it smells done early put foil on top, and bake another 2 min, for a total of 22 min.
Done.
That baby will inflate like a baloon, huge holes, and a lovfely soft glass structure.
So oooo delicious a Frenchman will blush.
Jane, très intéressante variation. Quand j'aurai le temps, le plan de travail, etc. (hahaha), j'essaierai.
Bob, what's the "fresh starter" you're using? No yeast?
Do your baguettes open up like slashed baguettes during cooking?
Bob
Thanks for the com. These aren't baguettes and the crumb isn't supposed to be open, actually. But if you look on other pages here, you'll read about my Great Baguette Quest (which can also be seen on The Fresh Loaf). Your sourdough baguette recipe sounds very interesting, very little starter and a very long fermentation. All the pure sourdough baguettes I have tried are too chewy for my taste and that's why I put a bit of yeast in my version. But, this said, I'd be happy to try yours and when I do, I'll let you know.
Jane
Thank you - and a comment or three
Hi Janedo,
I am delighted that you tried my cryptic comments and turned them into a wonderful bread! That recipe is one that I don't give out often. More than a few people who bought that bread from me have said "it is the best bread I have ever had." I like it also, but wouldn't praise it that highly.
As one person in your blog commented, it is almost like not using yeast. The very classic Poolish technique was invented after the introduction of commercial bakers yeast. In the mid to late 1800's bakers switched from sourdough to bakers yeast. In the hands of the inexperienced, yeast is more consistent than sourdough. And it is less work. However, bakers soon discovered two things.
Customers complained the new bread didn't have as much taste as the old bread. And the baker discovered they had to pay the yeast companies every time they made bread. Bakers are about the thriftiest (OK, cheapest) people on this planet. To a baker, sourdough is free. You feed the sourdough and it is turned into bread with no waste.
The answer to both questions was the same. Use less yeast. LOTS less yeast. In Italy, they use a stiffer dough called a Biga. In Poland, Austria and France, they use a batter called a poolish. Using a VERY small amount of yeast and allowing it to grow over a long period of time - 12 to 18 hours - allows flavors to develop. Long rises really help develop flavors, and as most bakers will tell you, the longer bread takes to make, the longer it will last. In storage tests, my sourdough breads typically lasted 21 days before mold set in, my poolish breads about 14.
I like sourdough breads, but I also like yeasted breads. Both can have wonderful, if different, flavors.
Sorry for the long, and English, post. I hope Babelfish will work better for your readers than it has for me.
Mike
J'admire, je bave et j'suis jalouse.....!!!!!
J'ai pris le temps de découvrir ton blog, et je le trouve vraiment très intéressant et voire même enrichissant!
La Curieuse
Merci beaucoup!
Ils sont toujours aussi merveilleux tes pains.
Bravo, tu métrises la pâte comme une chef.
Lovely bread Jane!
Jane,
Ils sont beaux, ces bâtards!! I love the blistered crust, even if you don't. (I know, it's a cultural thing.) Your crust looks thin and crackly, was it? The crumb as well is lovely and inviting.
Questions:
Is the poolish is held at room temperature? Approximately what temperature did you have?
What difference do you think overnight resting in the fridge would have made for the final dough?
J'aime bien ton blog!
Soundman
Hi Soundman!
The poolish was held at about 20°C, I'd say. Maybe 19°C.
The overnight rest changes everything. If you compare the two Three River recipes, one isn't made with a poolish and is done basically in a straight dough method. It is very nice bread, but it had to be eaten fresh. Mike's version has more depth of flavor, partly from the poolish, but a lot comes from the over night in the fridge as well. I can say this because I make a lot of bread that uses this technique and can recognize the difference. If I'm rushed, I have been known to skip it and the bread is not the same. I have also made bread early in the morning and stuck it in the fridge for about a 6 hr period and that does help, too.
The night in the fridge also changes the texture of the bread. The dough is easier to handle and so it is easier to maintain the bubbles that form. I don't know if this is "fact", but it is what I have noticed, since the fermentation continues in the fridge and is slowed, then maybe stopped, the bubbles form, but differently from a fast fermentation. They get big and the cold dough stretches differently. So, after, during the handling, they stay better. And the resulting crumb is very open. Without the cold fermentation, this can be obtained with a very high hydration dough, but then you don't get the flavor and aroma that develops.
En tout cas, merci pour ta visite et à très bientôt j'espère!
Jane
Superbe pain et superbe mie !!! Je l'ai fait hier, adapté à la MAP !!! Il est trop trop bon celui-ci aussi et il est lààà > http://bonheursdottoki.canalblog.com/archives/2008/10/11/10914265.html
Merci encore Jane ! et merci à Mike !!!
A bientôt...
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