Une variation du Pain des Trois Rivières/ A variation on the Bread of Three Rivers

Après avoir mis la recette du Pain des Trois Rivières, Mike Avery, le boulanger qui m'avait parlé du livre Bread of Three Rivers de Sara Mansfield Taber, m'a écrit pour décrire le pain qu'il vend dans sa boulangerie qui est basé sur la recette du livre. C'était un peu cryptique, mais je pense avoir compris l'essentiel. Il a changé le taux d'hydratation et j'ai décidé de garder le même mais en suivant sa technique de fabrication.

After having posted the recipe for the Bread of Three Rivers, Mike Avery, the baker who had initially told me about the book, wrote me to explain his take on this recipe, a bread that he sells in his bakery. It was a bit cryptic, but I think I understood the essential (Mike, I hope you'll let me know what you think!) He changed the hydration level and I decided to keep it the same while following his technique. OK, I admit that it was because I was a bit lazy to change all my calculations.

On obtient un pain de meilleur qualité gustative, plus complexe, and aussi une texture plus élastique avec une mie plus alvéolée. Le pain se garde mieux aussi. Il ne ressemble plus au pain classique de boulangerie, il est bien meilleur!

The resulting bread is of better quality than the first recipe, with better, more complex taste and a more elastic and open crumb. It keeps much better as well. It doesn't resemble a classic bakery bread, it is much better.

La croûte du pain a des petits points partout car je voulais le vaporiser juste avant de le mettre au four mais mon vaporisateur n'avais pas assez d'eau et ça a fait des goutelettes
The bread has dots on it because I decided to try misting it before baking, but I didn't have enough water in my mister and it made droplets. Oh well

La recette:
Here goes:

Mike Avery's French Bread

Pour le poolish:

La veille au soir, mélangez en fouettant:
In the evening, whisk together:

150g farine T65 (bread flour)(on peut ajouter 2 cs de gluten pour arriver à 12+% de protéine mais je ne l'ai pas fait)
151g eau (water)
1/8 cc levure de boulanger (1/8 tsp dry yeast)

Autolyse:

Le matin, dans un bol mélangez et laissez reposer couvert de 30-60 min
In the morning, mix in a bol and let rest, covered from 30-60 min

250g farine T65
200g eau

Pour la pâte finale:
For the final dough:

la pâte de l'autolyse (the autolyse dough)
le poolish (the poolish)
200g farine T65 (bread flour)
1/4 cc levure de boulanger (1/4 tsp yeast)
51g eau (water)
11g sel (salt)

Mélangez tous les ingrédients et pétrissez jusqu'à ce que la pâte forme une boule, bien élastique et lisse. Posez-la dans un bol, couvert d'un film plastique. Chaque 20 - 30 min effectuez un pliage.
Après 1-1h30, pesez et découpez la pâte. Effectuez une première mise en forme, couvrez et laisser reposer 15 min.
Façonnez les parts. J'ai fait deux grosses bâtards comme dans la permière recette afin de comparer le résultat.
Posez les bâtards dans une couche, couvrez et mettez au frigo toute la nuit. (J'avoue que j'ai triché. Je les ai laissés au frigo jusqu'à tard dans l'après-midi en les faisant cuire pour le dîner)
Préchauffez le four à 250°C
Transposez les bâtards sur une pelle à pain bien farinée, faits les incisions comme pour une baguette.
Faites un très bon coup de buée et enfournez les bâtards. Refaites un coup de buée.
Laissez cuire environ 25 min jusqu'à ce que la crôute soit bien dorée mais pas trop foncée et que le dessous sonne creux.

Mix all the ingredients and knead until the dough forms a nice ball, elastic and smooth.
Place it in a bowl and cover. Do a stretch and fold every 20-30 min.
After about 1-1h30, when the dough has nicely risen,  scale and do a mise en forme. Cover and let rest 15 min.
Shape two bâtards (or whatever shape you want. I wanted to compare with the other recipe so I did the same) and place them in a couche.
Place them, covered, in the fridge all night. (I cheated and left them all day until late afternoon in order to have fresh bread for dinner).
Preheat the oven to 250°C.
Turn the bâtards on to the floured peel. Do the incisions. Steam the oven well and slide the bâtards in to the oven.  Steam a bit more.
Let them bake around 25 mn making sure they don't brown too much. OK, I didn't actually time because my timer is broken, so watch!
Let cool on a rack before slicing.

Comments

[Ottoki]

Superbe pain et superbe mie !!! Je l'ai fait hier, adapté à la MAP !!! Il est trop trop bon celui-ci aussi et il est lààà > http://bonheursdottoki.canalblog.com/archives/2008/10/11/10914265.html
Merci encore Jane ! et merci à Mike !!!
A bientôt...

[Jane]

Hi Soundman!
The poolish was held at about 20°C, I'd say. Maybe 19°C.
The overnight rest changes everything. If you compare the two Three River recipes, one isn't made with a poolish and is done basically in a straight dough method. It is very nice bread, but it had to be eaten fresh. Mike's version has more depth of flavor, partly from the poolish, but a lot comes from the over night in the fridge as well. I can say this because I make a lot of bread that uses this technique and can recognize the difference. If I'm rushed, I have been known to skip it and the bread is not the same. I have also made bread early in the morning and stuck it in the fridge for about a 6 hr period and that does help, too.
The night in the fridge also changes the texture of the bread. The dough is easier to handle and so it is easier to maintain the bubbles that form. I don't know if this is "fact", but it is what I have noticed, since the fermentation continues in the fridge and is slowed, then maybe stopped, the bubbles form, but differently from a fast fermentation. They get big and the cold dough stretches differently. So, after, during the handling, they stay better. And the resulting crumb is very open. Without the cold fermentation, this can be obtained with a very high hydration dough, but then you don't get the flavor and aroma that develops.

En tout cas, merci pour ta visite et à très bientôt j'espère!

Jane

[Soundman]

Jane,
Ils sont beaux, ces bâtards!! I love the blistered crust, even if you don't. (I know, it's a cultural thing.) Your crust looks thin and crackly, was it? The crumb as well is lovely and inviting.

Questions:
Is the poolish is held at room temperature? Approximately what temperature did you have?

What difference do you think overnight resting in the fridge would have made for the final dough?

J'aime bien ton blog!

[Aline]

Ils sont toujours aussi merveilleux tes pains.
Bravo, tu métrises la pâte comme une chef.

[Jane]

Merci beaucoup!